Where to put the SUB????
 

I am currently pushing a 12" Kicker Solabaric(sp) in the trunk of my 03' Eclipse. I will be getting a Z soon thus, I loose the back seat. where are you guys mounting the subs in your 370. Another thing, how are those flat subs, any good?

Pioneer has some 10 and 12 inch flat subs. They sound pretty good, but I hear that theres a few other companies making them now. I haven't listened to any of those, but the Pioneers hit pretty good. In a hatch car like the Z, they're going to be PLENTY.

I heard them in a convertible. So I can only imagine they're going to hit way hard in a hatch. I think the 10 inch was a 1K watt and the 12 inch was 1500 watt.


Found a link:
10" Pioneer USA - Shallow Series

12" http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...201S2|S4?tab=B


I personally like JL more, but if you're looking for space, these are pretty nice.

in my 350 i put my 2 10s in a custom box under the strut bar. now with the 370, i have a couple thoughts:
1) make 2 small boxes behind the seats (in that little compartment area)...sound quality probably wont be as good
2) make a larger box and but it right against the strut bar, or even make a box and put it at the very back of the trunk...this will bump hard!
3) (my favorite), take out the spare tire, and make a box...this will look show worthy, and still give u full cargo capacity. I will probably go this route (maybe have a plexiglass top and some LEDs)

I'd never get rid of my spare if I'm not racing. I've had random flats in parking lots because there's a lot of @ssholes out here that will slash your tires for no reason other than them being jealous of your car.

^^damn dude. sorry to hear that. I drove my 350 for 3 years and never used my spare (drove over 55k miles), so I thought it was safe to take out the spare. but it only takes that one time to be like...damn, shoulda never took it out

I've come up with a wedge box with height of 15" and a tad over 1 cu. in. volume. That's the minimum for a 12" setup. Box depth is 13" so a double magnet sub should fit nicely (7" depth max.). Width is around 20". It'll have "wings" on the slanted back end to support a couple of amps. Length depends on how I'm going to position my amps. Assuming a 15" box height won't pose any problems (it's fine in my dad's Z32), this is the design I'm going for. It'll be flush with the strut tower side, and the flat end with the sub will be facing towards the rear. Building it is a different story so I'm going to have someone do that for me.

All you need is one JL Audio 13" Flat free air sub in the spare tire well. It cost around 700 but it is worth it. JL has the quality and clarity locked down tight. Nothing out there can beat it. Buddy of mine has a W7 12.5 and a JL /1000 on it. It is louder than 2 12s any day.

^^^ Interesting. Is this what you're talking about?
JL Audio: TW5 Subwoofers

Looks pretty bad @ss.

put it in a civic.

:bowrofl: I like JL Audio, and my previous sub was a 10W3-D2. My dad has a 12W6v2. The TW5 was in considering, but I rather put myself on a budget for the next project. It'll be something different. Box and tuning is higher priority over a single $500+ sub. It will be a small challenge. Plus, it has been over 8 years since I've had a 12" sub. ;)

omg...that tw5 is super sexy...gonna look into that...or at least flat subs

Yeah, the Pioneer flat subs are a better bang-4-buck deal. They handle more power, but probably don't sound as good as the JL from a competition point of view. But if you're just going for good quality sound for a daily, the flat Pioneers I posted sound pretty good.

Do you guys know much about Memphis Audio? I looked at one of their low profile subs today.

Yeah? Details? Did you just look or did you have a chance to hear 'em?

BTW, those can be found here: http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/produ...ss-subwoofers/

No, it wasn't installed. It was sitting out on display, but I don't have much interest looking at the moment.

Yeah. I was thinking that the only thing I'd want to upgrade are the component speakers. But then I started looking into other options and adding amps... I'm somewhat new to doing anything audio, so I'll leave it to the experts for now. But for the most part, I don't want to start adding weight! LOL So just upgrading the component speakers should be fine for me.

BTW, does anyone know how many watts/ohms the factory system has?

Originally i was going to take some pix of the Bose setup and mimic it, and then i got to thinking. "the spare", but i refuse to get rid of it. I think i will mix a couple of your IDEAS thanx fellas. I have a little prior experience in Fab work for audio so i think i might
: Place it above the spare in the trunk and go from there. I haven't even seen the inside of there for myself but i get back to the states in like 4 days and i am going straight to the NISSAN dealer and pick on up.....I HOPE THEY HAVE RED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

memphis audio has good stuff, there speakers kind of suck for SQ but if all you want is SPL than they are good. But there amps and line drivers are good, I'm currently using a memphis audio line driver in my set up.

Gotcha! Thanks! :hello: SQ is more important since I don't bump my stereo much. The eD amps I ordered is probably overkill especially since my music isn't that loud... it just sounds good.

Gosh, I think we're going OT in regards to sub location. I'm definitely taking advantage of the space behind the strut tower and try to keep the box flush so it doesn't get in the way of the spare tire.

It could've been worse... NSX owners have to install a 10" sub in the passenger footwell.

You always have AAA to call if your spare is out. With the 19" rims you get a 18" spare anyway so I really don't want to drive around on 3 19" wheels and 1 18" one.

Well, you don't want to be driving on your spare anyways. They're not meant to go more than 50 miles. LOL The idea isn't to look stylin' while your drivin ' on your spare. The idea is to get you out of trouble. :D

Either way, with a spare that's that tall, you can fit your 12" low-profile sub inside it and go factory-fit.

has anybody created a box that goes in the spare wheel well yet? or at least have taken apart the sub that comes with touring?

-another idea would be to create a box for the tools/jack on the foams beside the spare to put in the wheel well and then create two boxes that can at least fit a pioneer flat 8 subs to replace those foams...

One thing that I would consider, if you are upgrading your wheels and tires to a size that is non-factory then having a spare is really just dead space.. I am going to put my sub and amp in the spare area.

I removed my spare in my last build, I carry a can of fix a flat. If it's worse than that can handle, I'm walking. Consider this, Where are you gonna put your flat tire/wheel if you have a sub box fit in the rear hatch area? Are you gonna leave your sub box on the side of the road, or your flat? Or are you gonna put your flat in the passenger seat? You know it'll be raining that day you get a flat. Seems to me, you might as well just remove it and use the spare tire well. C5 Z06's came with a patch kit, and c6's have nothing. (except run flats)

I think I'm going to do that to. It has the added benefit of cancelling out the weight addition of the sub and amp :tup:

That's funny.....:icon17:

The most expensive of the 2 ( flat tire and rim / Sub with box ) gets the passenger seat. I will have to weigh up that option at time of FLAT.

i have a question guys. i dont know if this is true and i hope its not but i need answers. i went to a shop the other day inquiring about subs and sound systems. the installer said he never worked on a z34 before but he worked with plenty of z33's. and in the z33, his customers usually have their subs placed in the spare tire well. this is the catch. whether its a custom made fiber glass finish to a regular box, there was problems with the gas guage meter or w/e. he said that it wasnt "accurate"? he was explaining that the gas tank is positioned right under the spare tire well and that the subs cause a magnetic effect or some sh*t that f*cks with the gas sensors or w/e which causes it to have a false reading to the guages? so basically the gas guage meter will not be on point.

is this true?

answers please, thanks.