if the buzzing continues when your rcas are unplugged, its definitely coming from your amp. Try grounding the amp to a different spot, if that doesn't cure it, you may have gains set too high.

I don't think it's from the amp. I tried grounding to a different bolt on the passenger seat. Also tried turning gain all the way down or up but it has no effect on this buzz (unlike before yes).

I'd try putting a filter on the amp's power input. They're cheap (often just a capacitor, sometimes with an inductor added).

The speaker wires could be picking up noise. Keep wires as short as possible.

Trust me, its your amp. If RCAs are disconnected, there is nothing else in the signal chain other than the amp, speaker wires, and speakers themselves.
There is always the slim chance your speaker wires are picking up noise, but I mean SLIM chance, unless they are the cheapest wire you could find.
Lets discuss how you set your gains.
My experience over the years has been to move ground first, then examine gain structure.
Southark370z mentioned using a filter on the power lead. I have tried several of them the past on other installs, and never had luck with them in an Amplified setup. They have worked for me on systems just off head unit power, though.

The quality of speaker wire (gauge, conductor material, insulation) has nothing to do with picking up noise. It is an antenna. Using shielded and/or twisted pairs can help.

Other than the level of sound quality that can be achieved in a car, I've agreed with just about every other thing you have posted about car audio. Which is exactly why I have told others to take your advice. :tiphat:

:icon18: :iagree:

There are some that would argue that subject.....I'm not one of them, I'm just not well versed on the subject, I fly by the seat of my pants on past experiences, and things I have read. I'm just a guy who loves car stereo. I do agree that it is in fact an antenna, and from what I have read, twisted pairs can help with noise.
Now whats this you say about sound quality in a car????;)

As far as I'm concerned, you are the Resident Audio Guru. :tiphat: I'm pretty sure that amps are much better than what I'm used to working on at rejecting noise so that noise on the outputs is not a big problem. But if the wires go near one of the control modules (or other strong EMF source), it can pick up a lot of noise.

Even twisted pair is a trade-off. Keeping the wires away from EMF sources is the best route. Ounce of prevention...

I see no need to rehash that. Music reproduction is VERY subjective. You seem to be delivering what people enjoy listening to and that's what it's all about. :driving: (Quit knocking Bose so hard - a lot of people like the way it sounds :) )

Lol.. I think you have me confused with Bigaudiofanat...... Hes the "Bose basher", and deserves the Guru title.
I'm more of a "whatever sounds good to you" guy. To each his/her own.

I may have gotten you two mixed up about the Bose bashing but both of you are car audio gurus in my book. :tup:

Yep as I said and Ron reinforced, it's your amp. If this noise really bothers you buy some quality amps with a lower noise floor.

Thank you all. I have not noticed the buzz at all now that I don't chase it. But I agree, it's probably the cheap amp.

The sub has made the sound much more full. I learned a lot from this project. Even insulated the door.

You pile try a “Power Cap”

Isolating Ground loops can be difficult, but a power cap removed it for me


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For static elimination, something the size of a power cap is uncalled for. A much smaller (physically) and less expensive cap will work just as well.

Yes, but if he has installed that amount of power amps, a power cap will stop the headlamps dimming every time the bass kicks in and eliminates electrical noise


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