Sopoby Solder Seal Wire Connectors
 

Has anyone tried these? I did and they work really well. See the amazon link.

https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connec.../dp/B01DPS8DPM

Was wondering if you folks out there have and how they worked for you? For me it made the DIY wiring a snap to complete.

I'm not a fan of these at all. solder and heat shrink should be done separate and for solder to have a low melt temp makes me wonder what it it.

This.

Additionally, it doesn't seem like it gives you control over or the ability to verify the mating of the two wires. A solder joint isn't really designed to be a strong mechanical connection, but you at least want to make sure everything is mated right before you starting melting metal.

I used to be a solder/ heatshrink guy, but recently I've moved to these and haven't looked back. You should give them a try.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1...b_b_asin_title

The only drawback is that you need a special crimper that will not puncture the heatshrink sheath. The one I got was only $12 and very high quality. I now use these for every connection except audio directly to speakers.

I've had experience with them at work - the solder joints have an unacceptably high failure rate IMO.

Looks like a good idea but I haven't tried them.

If I need a soldered connection I'll: crimp on an uninsulated connector; solder the joint(s); heat shrink, if needed. A little more involved that what you linked to but I know I have a good connection.

Those things are garbage from my experience. I'd much rather spend a little more time, do it right, and KNOW that I'm not going to have to redo wiring after the job is done.

Ad says 138°C (280.4°F) melting point.

According to Wikipedia, "61.9% tin and 38.1% lead ... , with melting temperature of 183 °C (361.4 °F)". It's not "regular" solder. Now I'm curious as to what it is.

I'm guessing it's an indium alloy probably with some added silver for strength. Designed for use with thermally-sensitive SMT components.

These are formally known as Solder Sleeves. Their advantage is that they make a very reliable bond if used properly (most common mistake is not using enough heat), even waterproof if you opt for the environmental kind (with the glue rings at either end). They are wire gauge specific for *both* ends and sometimes are even intended for 2:1 splits.

That being said, soldering is typically frowned on in high vibration environments because mechanical strain that is normally distributed down the length of the cable is concentrated at the solder joint.

However, if your situation dictates you must solder:
-Slide the solder sleeve on and past the joint, onto one of the sides of wire
-180degree bend the exposed ends of each wire
-Hook these bends together and pinch them shut around each other
-Slide the solder sleeve back to the joint
•Position so that the solder ring is centered on the joint you just made
-Use a heat gun to shrink the solder sleeve on the joint
•You’ll know when it’s finished because the solder ring will liquify and flow into the wire
•The heat shrink body should be tight around each wires’ insulation
+Slight ooze/protrusion of the adhesive ring is a sign of a good bond

If you heat too much or too long it will either char or split entirely, resulting in you starting over.