You may have better luck finding your answers on a dedicated android head unit subforum like this:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/and...oid-head-units

Rep'd thanks!!

After thinking about this more and doing some more reading I think you nailed it with this comment. :tup:

Personally I would like to see a head unit with a 15 band EQ and 4 volt preouts. If there was a way to get the 15 band EQ on the Atoto a6 with gesture controls I will buy it right now since it already has 4 volts according to the manufacturer.

Hey all, Here's my contribution. Thought some readers might be interested in this too.

Here is my experience with the Joying Android HU.

I did an install about a month or so ago of the Joying JY-UO135N4PX5S. It is Android 8.1.0 Oreo Double Din Head Unit with 4GB/64GB. I used the standard faceplate adapter kit off Amazon as well as the adapter cable that was in that kit. A bit of soldering and I was in business. I am using the factory Bose speakers, amp and Sub that came with the Nismo Bose audio setup. The only knock I have is the volume control at first use. The boosted unit output will rock you too hard if you are not careful. I have since learned to live with the issue. I can run Agama Car Launcher to lower the unit overall audio output if I need to. It has an additional volume control that can be enabled as part of the launcher app.

I have also since wired in the rear facing back-up camera to work with the reverse lamp wiring in the back of the car. I am happy with the results so far. For a minor outlay of cash you can swap out the crap Nissan HU and install something much more functional. I am not sure why this isn't a factory option on more cars these days.

Good luck with your install.

Hi Corsairprime, I am noob for HU. What did you solder the wires to? Isn't there a harness that you can get without having to soldering? I have a base sport with boss without nav, and I planned on getring the same unit. TIA.

You solder the metra harness to the harness of your new radio, you cut 3 wires in the factory radio and wire them to a steering wheel control module (grounding 1 of them) to have steering wheel controls with your new head unit. Solder is the best way to join the harnesses and make all connections solid.

True what he said
 

Yes, soldering the Dash kit wiring to the HU wiring is the magic here. I know, restating the obvious. It just depends on Bose or No-Bose. My thoughts are, if No-Bose. Do not solder the amp trigger wires together. Someone else can confirm or deny this for me. The Steering wheel controls are optional, kind of. But useful to have.

The only reason I say this is, it'll mean wire cutting in the dash to make the steering controls function. it's a tight space and the wires are tiny. I wanted to maintain the ability to re-install the factory Crap HU if needed. A personal preference.

Take it with a grain of salt.

Don't necessarily have to cut the OEM wiring to add a steering wheel remote adapter.. I just pinned my radio harness adapter for those connections. Since the Z has no rear speakers, I just moved those wires over to the steering remote pins.

Additionally, if you are running one of these chinese android units - most of them already have resistive remote inputs so no adapter (like a ASWC) is even needed.

Thanks guys for all the answers.

I was recommended this...might save the stock wiring...

Posi-Products Wire Tap

OK guys so big update...Sorry I know it's been a long time since I posted but the install was gradual and slow plus been working alot.

Here is my Review of the items installed:

ATOT Chinese Head Unit

My thoughts: I really have a love hate relationship with this head unit but it could be ignorance because I am not getting the sound I want just yet but I will go into that later. My thoughts on the product are...

Screen: has a blueish tint that I do not like but is mostly noticeable at night. Other than that its nice.

Features: more features then I will ever need. I quickly learned that all I really want is Waze, Spotify, a good EQ, CD player for higher quality music, DVR, and rear camera. Everything else is a waste for me

DVR: I have the camera connected and it looks great but still havent routed the wires so it is not mounted. I will add additional comments once I start using it.

Gesture Controls: kinda cool but honestly I use the buttons more then anything. Perhaps if the gesture controls were a bit more accurate I would use them more often. Nice feature but don't think its completely there yet.

Sound: this is where I am struggling. At first it sounded horrible but once I figured out the configuration of the amp running the components it improved the sound drastically but I am still chasing an issue that I need help on! I am putting this under the head unit review cause I am not sure if it is being caused by the head unit or not. When the Cerwin Vega spare tire sub hits certain frequencies I feel like they are not being played and I am not sure if thats because the head units EQ only goes to 60 Hz on the low end or not. They advertise a frequency response of I think 45 Hz? I forget honestly but it's lower then the EQ's indicated 60 Hz. My point is when I listen to Rock there are moments where the song sounds like its missing bass but then other moments where its great. With electronic music its less noticeable but certain songs bring out the issue.

Component Speakers

JL Audio's 6x9's sound great but I am still tuning and figuring them out. I feel like may not be playing low enough but then again that could be that frequency issue I mentioned above. Something is missing here. Other then that SUPER LOUD and great sounding!

Cerwin Vega Spare Tire Sub

I was shocked how good it sounds. It bumps! I am having issues where I have to constanlty mess with the gain cause it is either too loud or not loud enough. Yes it is configured to be controlled by the HU volume wise and the EQ on the HU is set to 150 Hz (highest setting...had it at 100Hz and it sounded like crap). This gave me control over the range by the included remote. I usulally have the remote set to 75% gain, 0% Bass Boost, and 100 Hz.

Punch 300x2

I have this set to HP I believe around 100 Hz. I am not sure what the "Punch EQ" does so if anyone can chime in it would be appreciated. Amp is really really nice. Mounted where the old Bose Amp was. Will post pics maybe this weekend.

Final issue

I fubared my wiring...I am getting a whine coming into the speakers. I ran all the speaker wire down the center along side the shifter where the existing cabling is on the right (passenger side). I will post pics of that as well. I need to try and maybe relocate to the other side (driver side of the tunnel) away from existing wiring to see if that resolves the issue. Power was run on the right passenger side door guide then behind the ac fan and into the engine bay right next to the battery.

Future plans

I want to add the rear camera and attempt to wire the stock rear speakers to the HU. I also need help figuring out how to wire in the steering wheel controls cause that would be a game changer. Maybe some more dynamat in the rear.

For the whine, try giving the speaker wires a twist every 3-6 inches. See also: (unshielded) twisted pair wiring. Some filtering on the power input may help. Check shielding on interconnects.

coming in late, but a thread worth reading... Firstly, dont get too hung up on numbers where a head units freq resp is concerned inso far as SQ goes. Believe me, I have seen, heard, and installed many many many cheap *** head units that sounded ridiculously good when combined with the right installation, and other gear. Hell, My Titan has a $200 head unit and a $150 dsp in it, and sounds beautiful. I'm not versed on the android units, but it would have to be pretty shitty nowadays for you not to make it sound good.
I'm speculating here, but i will assume that the 45hz response would be limitations of the internal amplifier particularly since it claims to play down to 2 ohms.. However, if you use pre-amp outputs, you should have signal through the full range down to 20hz.
High res ready claims, and responses up to 40, even 50k hertz are total BS. The vast majority of people cant hear past 20k, less as you age. Your dog may love the 30k notes your hitting, though.
the Bass response issue you spoke of may be related to one or many things. Hell, it may be placebo effect, your recording media, the shape of your interior, location of your woofer, direction its pointed, windows down or up, ect, ect, ect. way too many variables to troubleshoot over an internet forum.
Many guys throwing good advice at you in here, but its just too complicated to diagnose without being there in person. Many times I had customers call with an issue, and my mind raced to a dozen different things it could be. I show up at their place with a truck full of tools and wire to find out they had the balance control 3 clicks left of center..lol
take your time, go over your gear and install process, wiring, ect and make it sound right to your ears, your car.

Thanks for the response(s)...

Ron...After messing around with the Filters on the amps I think I finally got it sounding more or less how I want. Don't get me wrong it sounds awesome and Bass hits hard with some songs but I noticed that the stock Bose system did a better job Bass wise while playing Rock...Then again playing electronic music is SOOOOOOOO much better with the new setup. In order to replicate the bass response of the stock Bose I need to set the gain on the Cerwin Vega spare tire sub to max and dial in 40% bass boost. I guess my complaint is I keep having to adjust the dang subs remote control to get it to sound great. Could be that the JL Audio components with the Punch amp are out shining the sub at high volumes. This is my guess anyways. I am nit picking really cause at normal levels the system is great!

ATOTO Review
 

For everyone else...If your considering getting an ATOTO head unit a word of caution:

I have found a flaw that drives me absolutely INSANE! To the point that I am considering selling the head unit and getting something else. While connected to the Hot spot from my phone (plenty of reception confirmed by speedtest 60 + Mbps and phone literally under the head unit) using Waze & Spotify both apps sometimes take 20 min to realize network connectivity is available. I kid you not! I reboot the head unit and nothing! So I decide to just drive...GPS is working cause the map is updating as I drive but I can't get any traffic data and the app keep saying "Waiting on Network" (I think thats the wording). 10 minutes from my destination after being on the road for 30 min already boom traffic data starts working! Now this was not always the case...In the beginning it worked great but all of a sudden crap.

Mind you I am a systems engineer so I know how to diagnose wireless...System has an IP address, phone has plenty of bandwidth, happens regardless of vehicle location so that eliminates interference, system indicates internet access under WIFI menu but the APPS are oblivious. Could be a programming issue with the app but still investigating. So I wont say it sucks just yet but I'm almost there LOL!