What amp will have good fitment?
I am looking for a two channel amp 800 or 900 watts. What brand/size amps have the best fitment in our 370Z's? There is not a lot of room to work with. Are amps did you guys install? What amps do you recommend Mike? The speakers I am probably going with are 400 watt max power rated subwoofers.
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I have the stock Bose system without nav that I will be completely removing.
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First of all we need to know the type of music you listen to and what your priorities are. Are you looking for just heavy bass or a truly nice sounding SQ system. I am assuming you will be replacing the stock speakers with after market. We need to know your budget for everything as well. My personal opinion stay away from kicker equipment. Yes, they are the most popular brand in car audio. That doesn't mean they are great speakers and amps. Do your home work and read. If you are buying components with passive cross overs you can go with a 2 channels to run the front left and right speakers. Four channels if no passive cross overs. That is to cover the front stage. Rear sub. Unless all you care about is bass. A good single 12 will be more than enough for that little cabin. The sub section will require a channel to drive. Alpine does make some very nice class D amps. Their high end subs are pretty good as well.
Image Dynamics IDQ12 D4 V.4 is one of my favorite sound quality subs that still boom pretty well. RE audio mid level or higher is quite nice for a sub. Give us some more information. Maybe we can help more. |
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Are you sure you're open to opinions on speakers? Sniper gave you a recommendation to choose speakers other than Kickers, yet you seem to really like them. That's fine, but why ask for recommendations on speakers when it seems like you have your mind made up?
What exactly is your budget? Saying that you're average to above average of what you would like to spend tells us little to nothing. If you can actually tell people what you're trying to spend in $$$, people can give you recommendations that will work for you. I would recommend dropping the rear speakers and running tweeters up front. You really don't need to run the rear speakers, especially in a small car. However, if you like that rear fill, and don't care much about the highs, get some rear speakers. I personally think getting rear speakers over tweeters is a terrible choice, but it's all about personal preference. At the end of the day, it's your system. If you do plan on running components and rear speakers, you may want to look for a 6-channel amp. I think listening to other people's systems will help you out a bunch, since it seems like you're not quite sure what you want. I would try and listen to systems at the shop doing the install for you. |
I have to agree with ditching the rear speakers, but its more a personal preference.
Since you seem to be going all out, you will want to get a set of components for the front. you need the tweeters, trust me. An unrelated comment, the genre of music you listen to has no bearing on your choice of equipment. SQ or SPL, on the other hand, would certainly affect my decisions. |
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I am also a fan of soft dome tweeters.
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I say set a budget then look at what you can afford. When I say budget, I mean actually $$. My budget is mid upper range. I have over 20k into my car. And yes, I still consider that mid range. So set a real $. Then what you are expecting out of the system. I'm not kicker fan myself. I like the type r, stereo integrity, RE.. the box you use effects sound too. I like soft dome tweets too. Your ears don't get tired as fast as they are not as piercing. I do like my Focal gear though.
Picking the right amp = knowing rms, ohm,ike posted up top. That's the basic anyways. I have not looked into audio in years so I don't know what would be good for the $.. YzGyz |
My 2c and what I did with my system. I don't like cheeping out when it comes to quality and my car. really fantastic speakers that will blow you away are some Componant Focals comes with tweeters and door speakers with a crossover filter box for the highs and lows. +1 as well with not installing the rear speakers the acuoustics of the 370z and it's small cabin the front speakers do just fine filling in the space in that car. I've heard nothing but bad feedback from rear speakers drowning out the front since they are right behind your head, and there is hardly any space to mount them. you don't need to run dual amps. I went with a JL XD1000/5v2 it is not cheap but you can dig around for other 5 channel amps to do the same thing. I mounted the amp and the crossovers behind the crossbar and in front of the trunk where the foam insert is/was I removed it gives you a nice space for audio equipment. I got a hold of what's called (extended nuts) with some screws to match and threaded them on the floor of the car there is a few post sticking up from manufacturing. I cut me out a board of mdf from lowes and screwed it in flush. then mounted the amp and cross overs there. I'm Currently at work and will post a picture of it later. and if you are worried about trunk space you should google (wickedCas 370z magic box) it fits perfectly in the corner and fits a nice 10 inch sub which is plenty for the z. im running a 10w3v3 jl sub at 500watts and is plenty of kick for the space of the z. this is just what I did for my 2c I have 90 percent of my trunk space still and everything is hidden away and is easy access. looks Oem. The space behind the cross bar is your best bet and should be good to fit most amps in there
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once I get off work and get home i'll post the pictures I have on hand and the hardware I used, hopefully that will give you good starting place and some ideas.
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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4290/...f8f1b503_b.jpgIMG_1018 by Kasey Meadows, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/...cd2d7d8e_b.jpgIMG_1025 by Kasey Meadows, on Flickr should give you a little bit of an idea, and the looks of things with an amp tucked in there. |
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If you want to keep the amps hidden, your best bet is behind the rear strut like McLovin has it.
You can take a look at this thread to get a better idea of the dimensions: http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/2...strut-bar.html If you need more space, and have a headunit with bluetooth capabilities, you can take out the bluetooth module (the box sitting on the passenger side). To potentially give you other ideas: Attachment 123070 |
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Want to make one note on top of your Bluetooth unit removal, it's also in charge of steering wheel button controls I found that out after I removed the silver box in the strut area, i thoroughly enjoy my controls so I had to wiggle it back in there as you can see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I've been out of the car audio game for a very long time, will this not work?
https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_113XR...R600-6DSP.html |
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this is the exact amp i'm running it's a 1000watt same 75watt channels you have on the one you posted but it has 500watts for the sub and it's 829 so not much more than what you were already looking at price wise but i really like JL quality, not saying kenwood is bad i've owned one before but this JL is just built really solid and is a really reputable brand. |
I have a 3 channel amp FS (check my sig) that I know fits behind the stut and under the foam, as I had it installed that way in my 2011.
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Main Channels @ 4 Ω 75 W RMS x 4 Main Channels @ 2 Ω 100 W RMS x 4 Main Channels - Bridged @ 4Ω 200 W RMS x 2 Subwoofer Channel @ 4 Ω 400 W RMS x 1 Subwoofer Channel @ 3 Ω 500 W RMS x 1 Subwoofer Channel @ 2 Ω 600 W RMS x 1 Subwoofer Channel @ 1.5 Ω N/A |
I agree with others here. I wouldn't buy anything "Kicker". They're not all that great, and definitely not what I think of when speaking about SQ. I also agree about NOT running rear fill speakers. Not because they'll drown out the front speakers (that's what faders and level adjustments are for), but because the rear fill with ultimately screw up and collapse the front stage. Then again, it doesn't seem to me that front stage is all that important to you either.
Being that you are concerned about space and where to mount amps and such, it would be a smart move to look at only multi-channel amps. That way you can power the entire system with only one amp. I just purchased an Arc Audio XDi 1200.6. It's a 6 channel amp, full Class D (digital), and runs at 150w watts x 4 @ 4 or 2 ohms OR 300w bridged into 2 ch stereo @ 4 ohms, and 150w x 2 @ 4 ohms, 300w x 2 @ 2 ohms, or 600 bridged mono @ 4 ohms. The best part is, it's SMALL! (13"W x 6.2"L x 2.1"H) And it has plenty of power for the entire system. Lastly, the discussion about metal dome vs soft dome tweeters... I have heard and owned plenty of both over the years, both for car audio and home audio. Once you reach a certain price point, it really doesn't matter. In fact, some of the absolute best tweeters in the world are metal dome. It's all a matter of the technology involved that makes a tweeter. Then again, you could go one step further and use no tweeter at all and end up with exquisite results, such as my Martin Logan electrostatic speakers that I use in my home system, that I recently modded by removing the passive crossover networks and now run a DSP and vertically bi-amped with two modded Carver M-500t MkII amps, producing 420 watts per channel into 4 ohms. And all of that power is not for loudness, it's for dynamic headroom. Anyway, I'm rambling now. |
Here's another amp to consider:
T1000X5ad - Power 1,000 Watt Class AD 5-Channel Amplifier | Rockford Fosgate® I like that it has speaker level inputs built in, and that remote punch level gain deal. The size though: 1.6 x 4.3 x 12 (in.) Crazy! So many options now!!! I've not bought an amp in nearly 10 years.... |
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I did hear those ML floorstanding versions about 20 years ago, was about as close as to feeling like you're at a live concert especially with rock/percussion. |
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http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s11...71767868-5.jpg http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s12...71767867-5.jpg |
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