wire sub + amp on stock HU
 

Hi all, I just got a killer deal on a subwoofer + ampli + capacitor.

For now, I don't really have the money to buy a double din HU + component. So I was wondering if for now, I could at least wire the subwoofer to the stock HU ? I have a base 2016 without Bose.

I know it will sound weird having too much bass but I was just wondering if it's something possible.

Thank you!

First, don't use the capacitor, it's not needed and can tack your electrical system more than help. Second as long as your amp has a High level input in, yes you can do this. Also called a speaker level input. You simply have to tap the speaker wires behind the head unit and run them into those inputs. Otherwise you have to get a Low level converter which aren't that expensive.

thank you, much appreciated!

:iagree:

Just to add to this thread, still keeping on topic...

I too have the base Z. I wouldn't mind adding a Bazooka sub and was wondering something. Since there's a spot in the side interior panels for small rear speakers, am I to assume that there's possibly already speaker wires run to those locations?

If so, I could tap into those to get the signal to the Bazooka and use the fader as a rudimentary gain control for the sub.

The reason I ask this is because when I had my '10 Nissan Cube, it didn't come with rear speakers in the rear doors, however the wiring was there and connected to the stock head unit. I'm thinking it might be the same way in the Z.

Then again, it looks like it might be a royal PITA to get access behind those side panels.

Actually, with a little bit of research, I just answered my own question about the rear speaker wiring... There is none.

exactly there is no wire in the back of base model. There is a big debate weather it's a good thing or not to add extra speakers there.

As for my initial question, i decided to buy a Head unit. Double din Kenwood 7" touch.

I'm in the camp of not adding rear speakers, so that was never a concern for me. Heck, even my home system is only 2-channel.

What I was getting at is if there were wires back there, they could be tapped into to feed a signal into a powered sub, nothing more.

But now after more research and thought, I'd rather just tap into the rear speaker outputs directly behind the stock head unit as it would be much easier to do, and easier to run the wires under the center console to the back of the car than pulling out all of the interior panels to get to them in the stock rear speaker locations.

There will be no rear speaker wires coming out of the stock head unit. you simply have to tap the front ones. I'd get something a little better then the bazooka tube as well.

I am kind of in the same boat as OP.

Can you elaborate how to connect a low level converter? have been doing research on this forum as I just got the car a few days ago.

is that the PAC SNI 35?

I don't want to tap the stock wiring. Is there any connector / harness out there that can extend the wiring so I can tap that instead?

Thanks

The only way you aren't going to NOT tap the factory wiring is to use speaker adapters and run speaker wire from the door panels on each side of the car back into one side and wire them up to the converter. It's not worth the time. Tap the stock wiring behind the head unit by using the diagram found as a sticky, use the front left and front right speaker wires. + and - wires to the adapter and than to your rca's going to your new amp.

Did a little research in the past few days and found these jumper harness will do the job without having the need to cut / tap stock wiring.

AutoHarnessHouse

Has anyone tried these harness?

I've figure out a solution to this:

connect a wiring harness to a reverse harness and tap the speaker wire to the line output converter. I've listed the items for someone who may be interested in doing so without tapping the stock wire.

BTW, should I tap front or rear speaker wire to the converter?

71-7552 (Reverse wiring harness) - $8
Metra 71-7552 (met-717552) Reverse OEM Radio Harness for Select

70-7552 - $8
Metra 70-7552 (met-707552) Wiring Harness for Select 2007-2008

PAC SNI 35 - $14
PAC SNI-35 (sni35) Variable LOC (Line Out Converter)

I thought I read somewhere that you said there's pin-outs on the head unit for the rear speakers, but they are just blank. If so, do you have a diagram and/or pics of the locations?

If that's the case and I can tap into rear outputs, that's where I'd like to tap into to get a signal to an amp for the sub(s). That would give me a way of adjusting the sub output on the fly, as well as a "bass control" knob coming from the amp to the center console.

Yes, I'm ditching the Bazooka idea, not because it's not a good sub, but because I always end up over-doing stuff. LOL

My current thoughts are keeping the stock head unit and stock speakers, then running an Audio Control Epicenter 600 amplifier under the passenger seat (I've used an Epicenter unit in every system I've built for myself, and always will), and a quartet of JL 6W3's, hopefully in the little cubby just behind/below the chassis brace.

My only real concern is being able to fit four 6.5" subs in that area, keeping them under the stock flooring/carpeting, completely out of sight, having enough mounting depth and air space.

As of right now I have no idea of the amount of space in that area. What's the actual depth and width of it? And what's that sensor thing mounted to the center of that "wall"?

I'm not concerned about those two bolts sticking up through the floor either. In fact, I'm going to use them to bolster down the enclosure. Make those suckers work to my advantage. :owned:

Does adding a sub using the stock HU and speaker level inputs mess with the ANC/ASE on the 2016+?