Not sure why you'd use 2 units, why not just use the re q5. it works very well and gives you all outputs you need.

yea... thats what i was thinking. But earlier in the thread, people were saying you should use both.

edit: Oh the r-eq and r-eq5 are different. Is this why we only need the r-eq5?

right, the re q5 will give you all outputs you need instead of just a subwoofer output. Also significantly cheaper than the CleanSweep

Look in the classifieds on this site! There is a guy selling a custom enclosure that fits in the spare tire that has a Jl Audio 8" sub in it. Then use your PG M-50 (great amp BTW) and an Audio control Epicenter or MTX r-eq plus the lineout converter I suggested and you have a nice, cost efffective solution.

The biggest difference from the re-q5 and the JL clean sweep is that the JL can do the cleaning of the signal a lot better than the re-q5 THAT us why a lot of people including myself recommend the re-q for the bass signal and the jl for the mids and highs or fronts. You can use the re-q5 but that is up to you. It might be cheaper but the prepossessing is not as good. This is probably one of the very few times that I recommend JL over something else.

ok, we'll agree to disagree, I've used them both, the JL has some cool features for adding accessories like ipod and TVs and such, but in the 370z they make very little sense on the navi unit. The re-q5 does an outstanding job for the price in my opinion

P

Adding a tv? Please inform me how in the world you can add a tv to the JL clean sweep as I have never hear of such a thing. The aux input if that is what you are referring to adding a tv is made to bypass all the factory stuff and allow you to use a device such as an ipod going directly to the amps.

Sorry, when I say TV, I actually mean flip down monitor with DVD. I'm just saying that the cleansweep is cool because it gives you some added input through an aux, it has an option with the SES module for adding multiple aux inputs, but I'm not sure that is really needed in a z, how many people are adding headrest or flip down monitors into their z with factory bose that would need a cleansweep.

P

The accord I did it turned out pretty nice. The accord has a factory aux port in the dash which I rewired and ran it to the JL clean sweep. Allowing the customer to use it without losing it or worrying about going threw the head unit. Just little things help but like I said both could be used I just prefer the JL.

I used to have a TV monitor in my truck (Pioneer). However, with the digital to analog change over last year, these units no longer work.

I am curious, if you do the stock radio with one of the devices (Re-Q or Cleansweep), would the radio's speed sensitivity feature still work or not? Also, has anyone actually installed one yet (any device such as this) in the Z with the factory radio? Just curious as to the wiring from the head unit and/or Bose amp to the device. And what about the fact that the front's are components? How is it being wired into the unit?

Not sure about the speed sensor but yes a few people have done installs with the factory bose system. The wiring is in two places one for the sub behind the seats and I am not sure were the other is as I have not done the install yet. I did make this to help for the wiring. Now you can also wiring into the pre outs coming out from the head unit before they go to the amp but when I did an accord install even after switching the tab on the jl for low input it did not sound right.

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/7...-diagrams.html

I was reading the install for the Audio Control LS6i, and it was stating to wire it from the head unit's amp or it's external amp if that is the case. I guess this would be best way, since I believe you mentioned something about the amp regulating the power. Does this sound right?

The bose does not have a built in amp only an external one. So yes to wiring it to the external amp.

No, I realize that...I was just repeating exactly what their manual said. What I was asking was what the idea proper placement for these units where for the Z: inbetween the head unit and amp-eliminating the factory amp...or after the factory amp?

After the factory amp. Sorry I did not understand what you were asking.

i spend a lot of money on stupid wiring and adapters to keep my head unit and install an after market sub woofer and an amp. its sucha headache but in the future im planing on gutting out the whole thing and changing everything

Great idea! :iagree:

I would go ahead and buy the new head unit I want, but it's a $1k. I'm not in any hurry to drop that cash, and I'm about to buy a house in the coming months ahead. Plus, the only real feature I'm lacking from my old stereo is watching movies, and to be honest I don't really miss it that much because I'm not driving long distances that much anymore.

Well not only are you going to need to get rid of the jl and all when you do that so it will be a bit more work than just changing out head units.

if you got the money gut everything out and sell the bose system and just build from scratch

Ok, this thread has given me enough confidence to pull the trigger on this. I have the Bose NAV and really just want good front components and a decent sub (though I can't decide on 10" x 2 vs. 12" x 1).

So far looks like:

MTX-ReQ for Sub
JL CleanSweep for Front Speakers
JL Amp for front
JL Amp for sub
JL Comp. Speakers x 2 for front
JL Comp. sub x (1 -12 or 2 - 10)
Zenclosure Box for subs
assorted speaker, power wire & sound mat

And back speakers will be disconnected.

Sound right? Anybody got advice on speaker/sub choice for a small 2-person car? I have only done this to trucks before.

Depends on how many watts you want to put to the sub. I have one JL 12w6v2 which has a sweetspot around 500 watts. It has great sound quality and a sweet punch.

Just have to ask why all JL stuff? There is better stuff for cheaper. Like Focal, polk, and image dynamics even alpines higher end stuff is nice.

Mainly I chose JL because I had it in the past (that and Memphis high-end stuff).

Honestly, I would take any recommendation by someone that knows. I am not an expert in this though if you need to build a datacenter I can help :)

I was looking at Crutchfield because I don't have a local shop (that I trust/have a relationship with).

I need a car project because I have yet to do anything to this one (lights were someone else). Feels like it really isn't mine until I do.

If you have a recommendation or any of this, I am all ears.

Crutchfield has amazing customer service and is great for some items that you will purchase. I just got my Sat radio Eclipse avn726 interface from them and received it 2 days later for free. Cost was lower than wooferetc. which has fantastic prices compared to retail and where I bought my head unit. Onlinecarstereo is good too but you have to photo copy some items later that night when they call you and verify you are who you say you are. I received my Jl 12W6v2 sub for like 300 bucks from them in a perfectly sealed new box and also bought wires and such with no problems. I would recommend them too.

BigA hates on JL and pimps Image Dynamics all the time but prices on a comparable sub in their higher end line will cost you close to the same $.

I like JL because they are made right here in Florida, have awesome quality and well known in the industry as one of the best.

You can buy a cheaper car but you bought a Nissan 370. :stirthepot:

I love JL, I think they have some of the best stuff out there. Also there bass is so clean and tight.

Good advice and thanks for the links. Watched all of your install videos. Great work man, very helpful.

You went with the HD900/5 on yours right? So did you go 150Wx2 / 500x1? What did you use for front speakers? What works well with 150W?

Yes, right now 150x2 and 500x1 to the sub

I must say that I feel lately that I am missing a fullness ( rear fill )

I went with Boston Pro60 se components up front and have given it quite a few months with just the fronts. The longer I am in the car cranking away it sounds awesome. But when I first get in every day I feel it needs the rears. My ears are not lying to me and I will be adding some rears, maybe even try fiberglassing some pods to house some 6.5 coaxials and then run my amp 100X4.

Rear hatch are 5 1/4 too right? Maybe I should just by 100 watt RMS all around.

That HD900/5 look slick. Can't beat the space savings.

From what I have heard on here from others is that the rear area holds 3.5 inch speakers. Which is why I was thinking of fabricating something.

2fast4thelaw:

Thanks for the info. I'll def look in to the custom enclosure. It sounds exactly like what i'm looking for.

I also have two PG M25's, but I don't think I'll be using them in the Z. I had all three installed in my last car. The sound was amazing, but I don'[t feel the need to go totally overboard with my audio system anymore. I guess I'm getting old! LOL!

This thread is great - I'm thinking of doing something similar but have some questions:

I want to keep the factory head unit in place for a clean-stocker look. I'd also like rear speakers as just like SlikNik I enjoy hearing from all around me. A few questions:

Using the JL clean sweep attached to an Alpine PDX-5 (which has 75x4 and 300x1) could I *just* use the clean sweep and use this amp to power both the fronts, rears and the sub? (replacing all of the speakers & fabricating my own 8" in-the-spare-tire fiberglass unit)?

Thanks for the help - its good to have access to all of this experience & knowledge.

Finally, if anyone's in the Austin area & does personal installs, I'd love to hire someone personally & learn.

Kevin

Glad to see this thread is still going.

I haven't done anything with my stereo yet. We've had over 4 feet of snow this winter, so I won't be driving my Z for quite sometime. As soon as the winter is over I'm going to tint the windows and upgrade the stereo system. I'll be sure to post pics and let everyone know how it goes.

I have the nav/bose unit too and yes there is a aux input but honestly there is no point. you cant use your ipod while driving since its too dangerous and I don't feel like having the lid where the aux is open constantly :shakes head:

cant believe that they didn't even bother putting a simple USB in a 09 car which would of meant being able to controll the ipod with your steer controlls/Nav just like the GT-R

I just assumed the Nav system iPod input would allow you to control the iPod through the stereo system. Since that’s not the case, what’s the point?

no idea. I think I read something about the 2010 version having a usb port. but still wtf were they thinking. the GT-R had a usb connnector in 2009 why not the 370Z

2010 Nav has a usb port, at least according to the specs on nissan site.

I have the Nav with the i-pod connector and you can control the i-pod through the stereo and the steering wheel controls. Nissan actually has one of the best i-pod interfaces in the business. I can access my playlists and everything. Basically the nav screen turns into an i-pod screen without the album cover artwork. I think it is great that Nissan put a USB connector in the 2010 models for those people that may have MP3 players that aren't made by Apple.

Well that makes sense. I'm planning to install an ipod control unit and HD radio adapter in the spring.