A good place to start is to look at Big's stickied thread on Bose.

anyone interested in replacing door speakers but....
 

I have read it. But your post below made me think you just found a short cut.

:tup:
Unfortunately, there are no shortcuts around the bose setup that I am aware of.

yah, honestly if you want to improve the bose setup, i'd get a new HU first and try to eq' it first, beemaz. make sure the HU has at least 4v pre outs. i have the shitty bose in my G35C and run a pioneer dd + got door polk components afterwards. sounds good. :tup:

Update on the speakers. RonRizz wasn't kidding, there is a lot of sound coming from these things. Was a little bit of a pain in the *** to mount them though, had to grind down my old spacers to make way for these beasts. That said, once everything was installed, the speakers sound great. In my scenario though, I need to add more sound deadening and perhaps get a thicker speaker mount, since I believe that I'm hitting the window frame at loud volume.

All that said, rep RonRizz for a great suggestion. For the price, these are the best speakers I've heard.

sounds good deusexq :tup: do you run anything else besides the speakers in your audio setup? ie HU, amp, etc.

Didn't buy the spacer yet. I was going to see what the audio shop had to install it. The amazon reviews on the spacers listed weren't confident inspiring. Has anyone used those for this instal?

Agreed, the reviews pretty much slammed it. Does anyone know if we can get by with a 15mm (~5/8") spacer?

This one gets some good feedback:
Amazon.com: Gino Vehicle Car Khaki 6.5" Wooden Speaker Spacers 15mm Depth 2 Pcs: Sports & Outdoors

I cant confirm or deny, but if the 5/8" doesn't give you enough, a layer or two of weatherstripping could only help matters. Personally, I use it under all my speaker flanges. It helps create a good seal, and helps with vibration issues. 1/8" is not much to make up. a single layer under your spacer, and under your speaker flange may be just the ticket.

Thanks. I may go that route instead.

@RonRizz

You mention Xover at 50 hertz, I assume that's highpass and active, what order of cutoff were you using at 50 hertz?

Were you using another active filter, routing to the passive module for the Hertz, or simply relying on natural rolloff? If you were using a passive filter, was the impedance of Hertz and Lanzar about the same?

Thanks

I am running fully active off the processor in my head unit.
I am bandpassing my hertz woofers at 63hz with a 6db slope, to 1600hz with a 12db slope, and when I change to the Lanzars, I'm dropping to 50hz, and a 12db slope, to 1600hz with a 12db slope..... I run 2 sets of tweeters, the first are band passed from 1600 to 12khz, with a 12db slope, the second set in my a pillars are high passed at 12khz, with a 12 db slope.

Interesting, you're getting pretty low response from your tweeters, the 1600 hz @ 12 dB high pass (in your dash?) is lower than I might have expected - what kind of tweeters are you running (assume this is in the dash location?)

The tweeters are in the doors, just above the woofers, and they are the set that came with the hertz hsk 165xl component set. the others are in my a pillars just a touch above ear level. You can see them in my photo album.

Ehhh… Is there a pop quiz next week on this? :eekdance:

I respect you guys who can speak to this audio magic. Haha I just know how to use the + / - on the HU. Match a few color wires to make it work on the back end. :icon17: